This part of the country is steeped in history and was the backdrop for bloody conflicts between British Settlers and Xhosa inhabitants. Settler country is easily covered in a weekend and provides an experience of both serious and humorous historical anecdote.

Take the N2 to Grahamstown, the city established as a British barracks by the brutal Colonel Graham. Accommodation varies from the luxurious 7 Worcester Street, to the historical Cock House where renowned author Andre P Brink penned several novels; or the inexpensive Old Gaol where the old cells have been converted into delightful rooms.


Take the Spirits of the Past tour by raconteur Alan Weyer as he recounts the dramatic events that shaped the area, against the backdrop of the magnificent hills and valleys where much of the history played out.


Visit the Victorian Camera Obscura at the Observatory Museum in Bathurst Street. It is the only surviving device of its kind in the southern hemisphere and provides a fascinating view of the city.


Take a walk down the High Street with some of the oldest buildings in the area. The Cathedral of St Michael stands vigil at the far end – its spire is the dominant feature of the Grahamstown skyline.


Fine dining can be found at La Galleria in the St Aidans complex, and family fare at Gino’s on Hill Street. The Rat and Parrot in New Street provides hearty meals in a traditional English pub setting with fascinating locals propping up the bar.


Breakfast at Reddits Books and Coffee is a must with its breakfast bagel, coffee and freshly squeezed juice special.


Take the R67 to Bathurst, the original Settler town and home to the Eastern Cape’s thriving pineapple industry.


Lunch at the Bathurst Arms or Pig and Whistle, reputedly the oldest pub in the country, or stop in at the Big Pineapple, a towering pineapple-shaped building that dominates the horizon for miles. It is situated at the local Protea Hotel which provides reasonable and comfortable accommodation.


Further down the road is Port Alfred with beautiful beaches and craft and art shops. The Square Gallery in the old town square is housed in a heritage building and provides a platform for emerging artists.


Leave at least two hours for the drive back to Port Elizabeth - more if you want to stop in at the coastal village of Kenton-on-Sea.

More sun, sea and sand required? Head up the coast to KwaZulu-Natal and always-sunny Durban.

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